Mr. Shailendra Kumar Upadhyay, an octogenarian and former Nepalese politician is planning to oust Min Bahadur Sherchan from the ‘oldest person to scale Mount Everest’ title by attempting to climb the world’s tallest peak in April. At a press conference in Kathmandu, Upadhyay( 82 years) stated that he will begin his expedition from April 18 and will complete it within 45 days.
Ukrainian climber Dendruk Oleksandr climbed Lhakpa Ri (7045m) with Explore Himalaya last autumn (on September 2010). He is back again this spring all set to climb Cho Oyu(8201 m), the sixth Highest Peak in the world. After final preparation and participating at a two-day climbing course in Kathmandu, Oleksandr is on his way to Tibet with Explore Himalaya’s guides and support team. Before leaving for his expedition Explore Himalaya asked him about his plans. He said, “My dream is to climb Mount Everest from the North side. But before that I would like to tackle a lesser peak and that is why I chose Cho Oyu. The first peak I climbed was Lhakpa Ri, (last year with your company). It was my first big expedition and thanks to Explore Himalaya, it went very well. The team at Explore Himalaya for me is like family. After Cho Oyu, I hope to make my dream climb to Everest with Explore Himalaya.”
Oleksandr will be making his summit(Cho Oyu’s) bid in mid May. Explore Himalaya wishes him a successful ascent !
Dendruk Oleksandr at Lhakpa Ri, Autumn, 2010 (Pic; Oleksanr)
A clean-up drive to clear Mount Everest of about eight metric tonnes of garbage and waste matter will be organized by the Solid Waste Management and Resource Mobilisation Centre under the Ministry of Local Development, Nepal this April. Around 50 people from government and non- governmental bodies will participate in the clean-up drive. The team of government employees will be given special training on how to separate disposable and non-disposable waste. The wastes will be brought to Kathmandu after collection.
Mount Everest Expedition
A group of Nepalese civil servants are preparing to climb Mount Everest this spring. The team including 15 government employees are participating in possibly a first of its kind expedition to Mount Everest. The team has already received training in mountaineering from Nepal Mountaineering Training Academy. For the expedition, the government has allocated a budget of Rs 300 million. The expedition is slated to begin on the first week of April.
Nepalese Climbers Dawa Steven , Nanga Dorje and Pemba Tenzing scaled Kyojo Ri(6186m), a peak lying in the Khumbu region on 6th December. By scaling the peak in winter they have proved that climbing 6000m peaks in Nepal is possible even during icy winter season.
The route the trio took was off the beaten track. Kyjo Ri lies behind Khumbila Peak at the end of two hidden valleys located above 4000m.These hidden valleys rests between the Gokyo Valley (on the east) and Nangpa Valley (on the west). The team took a straightforward approach to the hidden valleys from Khumjung village.
The first hidden valley had an expanse of green pastures. Walking north towards the peak, they encountered a rocky headwall. While the left side of the wall had a very wide frozen waterfall , the right side had a narrow and steep cut in the wall. They entered the second hidden valley via this path.
The second hidden valley was rocky and barren with a large frozen pond in the middle. To the north of the pond there was a large sandy field and the team set up camp there. The next morning the team woke up early for the summit push. After an hour’s walk they had scaled the headwall of the second valley and arrived at Kyajo Ri’s glacier. Crossing the glacier the team came to the base of a rocky section leading straight up to a Col. The Col was directly south west of Kyajo Ri. From the Col the route curved up towards ice and hard granite rock. The team chose to free climb up and over the rocks to about 200 m below the summit.
Towards the end of the rocky section, they started fixing a rope(180metres) on the 50 degree slope of hard ice. Luckily the team found a 70m section of rope to the summit, left behind by a previous climbing team. Climbing up the rope the team managed to reach the summit at exactly noon on December 6th, 2010. The summit of Kyajo Ri offered a 360 degree view of major peaks in the Khumbu region, including Mount Everest (8848m), Lhotse (8516m), Makalu (8481m), Cho Oyu (8201m), Pumori (7161m), Shishapangma(8027m), Ama Dablam (6812m), Palung Ri (7013m), Gyanchung Khang (7952m), Ngozumba Ri (7786m), Thamserku (6608m), Khantega (6782m)etc. Normally teams would have taken 5 days to reach the summit from Khumjung , but these Nepalese climbers had succeeded in reaching the summit of Kyajo Ri in just 28 hours. Good weather conditions, hard and solid ice, and firm snow all contributed to the team’s successful ascent. Kudos to the team!
(Photo: Asian Trekking)