Upper Dolpo Trekking takes you to the mysterious highlands of far-west Nepal, beyond much lovedPhoksundo Lake and Shey
Upper Dolpo Trekoffers youthe wonders of the mystical land Dolpo.Ba-Yul, the hidden land of Dolpo, was first settled by Rokpa farmers and Drokpa nomads from Tibet in the 10th century. It is one of the highest inhabited places on earth, with scattered fortress-like villages and monasteries nestling amongst mountains of stark, ascetic beauty. Though part of Nepal today, Dolpo remains culturally and economically firmly tied to Tibet. The people of this desolate area are cut off from their southern neighbors by snow-covered passes for much of the year. Most of Dolpo is protected by SheyPhoksundo National Park, the home of magnificent Phoksundo Lake. It is bounded in the east and south by Dhaulagiri and ChurenHimal ranges and in the west by Jumla district. Although a few anthropologists and geographers had explored the region, the entire district was closed to foreigners until 1989.Peter Matthiessen’sSnow Leopard and David Snellgrove’s Himalayan Pilgrimage have contributed to the mystique and attraction of Dolpo. Both writers visited Shey Gompa, to the north of Phoksundo Lake, in inner Dolpo. This is the goal of most trekkers but Upper DolpoTrek will take you even further into the land’s wildernessand offers you to reak experience of “off the beaten trek”. So, Upper Dolpo Trekis more than Phoksundo Lake and Shey Gompa. Not just the mysteriously beautiful landscape, you can also explore the unique religion Bon-po, a shamanistic religion predating Tibetan Buddhism.
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It’s a panoramic thrill flying into Kathmandu on a clear day. The views of snow-capped mountain peaks sprawling down below you are almost ecstatic, beginning a whole chain of memorable experiences that stay with you for a long, long time. As your plane lands at Tribhuvan International Airport in Kathmandu, our waiting support team will meet and greet you at the arrivals and escort you to your hotel..
Kathmandu is the historical and cultural heart of Nepal and has been a popular destination for tourists ever since Nepal opened its doors to visitors. The city presents a wonderful mix of Hinduism, Tibetan Buddhism and Western influence. There will be a guided tour to UNESCO World Heritage Sites Boudhnath, the largest Buddhist stupa in Nepal and after that to Pashupatinath, the most popular Hindu shrine dedicated to Lord Shiva. You take a tour to Patan also called as Lalitpur (the City of Artisans), which is 5km away from Kathmandu. You walk through Patan Durbar Square, and delight in the architectural wonders of Malla era. MahaboudhaTemple, Kumbeshwor Temple, Krishna Temple and Golden Temple are the major attractions at the square. .
You fly from Kathmandu to Nepalgunj, which lies in the southwest part of the Terai, right on the border to India. After checking into your hotel you might visit Bageshwari Mandir, a temple to honour Goddess Kali. Nepalgunj is known for its local bazaars, which have goods with cheap price rates. Here, not only do you see people from all over Nepal, but also people from Tibet and India who have come here for trade. .
You take an early morning flight to Juphal where the Upper Dolpo trek begins. Dolpo flights are always scheduled early in the morning. This is because high wind in the Thulo Bheri Valley begins around 10 am, making later flights impossible. Once you arrive at Juphal (2500m), you start out on a short walk from Juphal to Dunai. You walk downhill through meadows and past a few houses to the small hotels at Kala Gaura (2090m). From here you follow the river trail upstream to Dunai. You camp near Dunai and explore this bustling little hill town for the rest of the afternoon. .
You start trekking from Dunai, cross the big steel suspension bridge and turn west, following the trail past the hospital, and then it's a level walk along the bank of the Thulo Bheri to its confluence with the Suli Gaad at 2070m. You follow the new trail north up the east bank of the Suli Gaad to a collection of teashops run by locals. Another hour of walking takes us to Kal Rupi and then on to Raktang (2260m). You cross to the west bank and trek past numerous cattle sheds and horse pastures, over a ridge to the rough stone houses of Jyalhasa, a wintering spot for the people of Ringmo. You keep walking upstream to another bridge, cross it to the east bank, and make your way past some crude teashops and a bridge over a side stream, the Ankhe Khola, at 2460m. The trail moves up and down through grass and ferns to a trail junction. The fork is the old trail leading to the army and national park post at Ankhe, and on to the old trail that passes the villages of Rahagoan and Parela, high on the ridge above. These three villages have a strange name connection: Parela (parela means eye-lashes), Rahagoan (raha means eyebrow) and Ankhe (ankha is eye). The trail to Phoksundo Lake climbs over a ridge at 2710m then descends on a rocky path to Chepka (2670m), which consists of collection of interconnected shops and lodges. You camp here or at another good spot beside a huge rock in walnut grove about 20 minutes beyond Chepka. .
You continue on the new trail, which stays near the river, climbing over a small ridge ,then crossing to the west side to avoid a large ridge and returning to the east side an hour later near a national park camping ground. Alongside the river at 2900m, the trail becomes a collection of rocks and sticks forming a dyke along the river bank. The trail makes several more ups and downs through forests of firs and larches as it continues upstream to a bridge that leads the village of Renje on the opposite side of the river at 3010m. You camp at a good camp site here or another about five minutes further on. .
You follow the Suli Gaad valley, which turns eastward and becomes even steeper and narrower. You then climb over a ridge and descends to a wooden bridge then continue along the ups and downs along the valley floor to the confluence of the Suli Gaad with the Pungmo Khola. From here the trail to Phoksundo Lake and Shey Gompa, major attraction of the Dolpo Trek, follows the west bank of the river. You climb through a forest of big cedar to a good camp site and then on to Palam (3710m), a winter settlement used by the people of Ringmo village. The houses are almost buried in the sandy soil. The entrance station for Shey Phoksundo National Park is at the south end of the village. After your park entrance ticket is examined, you may be subjected to a baggage inspection. You continue on the route, which switchbacks steeply on a sandy trail through open country to an elevation of 3300m, then you start up another steep set of dusty switchbacks to a ridge at 3780m. From the ridge there are distant views of a spectacular Suli Gaad waterfall - 200m high, the highest in Nepal. The trail makes a steep descent in birch forests to the upper reaches of the brilliantly clear, rushing waters of the Phoksundo Khola. Then you climb gently to Ringmo village, a picturesque settlement of flat-roofed stone houses with lots of mud -plastered chortens and maniwalls. Just below Ringmo, you cross a bridge and follow a trail north to the ranger station at Phoksundo Lake (3730m). You continue to the shores of the lake near the point where the Phoksundo Khola flows out of the lake. There are national park camping grounds on both sides of the river on the south-east shore of the lake. Park rules prohibit us from camping in other places. .
A trail leads from the lakeside through juniper trees to the white Pal Sentan Thasoon Chholing gompa, an old Bon-po gompa overlooking the lake that is said to have been built 60 generations ago. There are five other private gompas in various houses of small monastic community near the lake. The insides of the temples contain ancient Buddhist paintings and statues, but the trappings also reflect the animistic elements of the Bon-po religion, so some of the shrines are reminiscent of an ancient witch's cavern. Whoever visits the places will be equally fascinated by the strange iconography and practice of the Bon-po religion. .
From your campsite near Ringmo on the southern end of Phoksundo Lake, the trail contours on a rocky ledge as it skirts the western lip of the lake. In places it's precariously suspended on a gangway of wood supported on pegs driven into crevices in the rocks. As you cross a stream, look up at the glacier descending from the upper slopes of Kanjeralwa (6612m). You then climb to a crest at 4060m for a spectacular view of the lake with the snowy peaks of Sonam Kang in the background. The trail makes a step and dusty descent through birches and blue pines to the westernmost edge of the lake at 3630m where the Phoksundo Khola enters. The route now heads west, up along a wide valley. You follow an indistinct trail through thorn bushes and scrub trees, crisscrossing boggy marshes and tributaries of Phoksundo Khola. You camp in a forest of blue pines at Chunembaat 3630m. .
You begin the day along the level path that now heads north through a glacial valley. You then cross to the east bank of PhoksundoKhola. You follow the main valley for another hour to Kang Gompa. You climb steeply from Kang Gompa and stay on the grassy ridge. It's a long climb up the ridge past a few groves of birch trees. There are spectacular mountain views with Shey Shikar (6139m) and Kang Chunne (6443m) dominating the skyline to the west. You continue on a crest at 4200m then the route descends gently on a rocky trail to Lar Tsa, a camp site besides the river at 4120m. It's possible to continue walking, but you have now ascended more than 500m in a day and should spend the night at Lar Tsa for acclimatization. .
You cross a new bridge and climb to the top of a scree slope at 4490m, then make your way up a grassy ridge to a crest at 4640m. You contour and then drop gently into Mendok Ding (flower valley). You again climb alongside a stream to a campsite at 4610m. You are almost certain to spot a herd of blue sheep on the slopes above the camp. .
You continue on the route that follows the upper reaches of the PhoksundoKhola, then you turn north towards the peak of RiwoDrugdra (Crystal Mountain). There is a choice of trails here; you follow the more scenic pilgrim route across the Sehu La to the west of Crystal Mountain, making a kora (circumambulation) of this sacred peak. The Dolma trail turns north soon after camp while the pilgrim trail starts up a steep scree slope on the opposite side of a stream that flows from the north. After a long pull to Sehu La (also known as Mendok Ding La) at 5160m the trail descends a scree slope to a grassy meadow besides a stream valley and begins a series of long ascents and descends across ridges in and out of side valleys as it traverses around Crystal Mountain. After a steep, rough climb to a crest at 5010m and another at 4860m, you begin the descent to the Tar valley. Soon after the route reaches grassy slopes, a side trail leads to Tsakang, a gompa said to be 800years old perched dramatically on the side of a cliff. The final descent is on a wide trail to a campsite in a large meadow near a few huts of nomads at 4310, just below Shey gompa. .
Cross the river on a log bridge and climb past a big Chorten and a huge field of mani stones to the Shey gompa compound at 4390m. The gompa itself is not large, and there are no artifacts or paintings of note inside. Although the building is said to be 800 years old, the wall paintings are relatively recent, probably done in 1970s. The statues on the altar are of Guru Rinpoche, Sakyamuni and Milarepa. The gompa also houses an ancient Tibetan scroll that describes the myth of Crystal Mountain and Shey gompa. According to the inscription, there is a holy lake in a crater among the mountains that surrounds Shey. When a pilgrim makes nine circumambulations of this lake the water turns milky. A sip of this milk can enable a pilgrim to see Mt. Kailash in the distance. The ones, who don’t need a day of rest, can try to find this lake..
You trek east from Shey gompa and across the 5010m Shey La. Here you turn north and descend before climbing again to Namgung (4430m). .
You traverse high above the Namgung Khola to Karang (4050m). It's also possible to descend to Saldang on the banks of the river, but this village is of little interest. .
You descend to TorakSumdo (3670m), the confluence of the Namgung and Polangkholas, and cross to the northern bank. You then climb to Yanger gompa at 3750m and trek along the river side valley. You camp at one of the campsites along the side of the stream at about 4100m before Mugaon. .
You continue up the valley to Mugaon and climb towards the Mushi La at 5030m. Then you descend towards Shimen village. You end the day at a good campsite in pastures above the village at 4010m. .
You drop down to Shimen village at 3870m and make a long trek upriver through Pha (4090m) to Tinje (4150m). .
You trek past the runway of mysterious Tinje airport to a trail junction at 4130m, where a high route leads to Tarap. You continue southward to a campsite on the banks of the river at Rakpa (4530m). .
You begin our day with a long climb to the Chharka La (4920m). You continue on the trail descending along the side of the valley, then make a big drop into a side valley at 4290m. You then make a long traverse down to the picturesque village of Chharka on the banks of Barbung Kola at 4120m. .
Another climb to a crest at 4380m begins this day. You then descend again to a river. You follow the right fork southward, climbing in and out of side valleys on a rough trail. The valley narrows, you then emerge into a big meadow and climb to our campsite at Norbulung (4750m). .
You begin the day climbing to ayak pasture at MolumSumna (4860m) and on to a crest at 5130m. You then make a long traverse across meadows to the foot of the Sangda La, then a long, steep final climb to the pass at 5460m. Switchbacks descend down to our camp site by a stream at 5100m. .
You climb to a lower Sangda La at 4990m, then descend through loose shale towards the village of SangdaGhunsa (4190m). You drop to the ChalungKhola, crossing it at 3750m, and then climb steeply up the opposite bank. A long high traverse leads to a cairn at 4090m, you then come to a set of steep switchbacks descents to a stream at 3580m. You do another climb to the compact settlement of Sangda, where you end a long day at 3700m. .
You ascend the hill behind Sangda and spend most of the day making a high traverse, crossing nine ridges to a final crest at 4280m. You then descend into the Kali Gandaki valley, traversing under high cliffs and descending to the large village of Dhagarjun (3290m)..
You climb to a ridge at 3360m and make a final descent on a challenging trail of loose rocks to Jomsom at 2670m. .
You take an early flight from Jomsom to Pokhara - a fantastic way to round off the trek, flying right along the Kali Gandaki Gorge between the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri ranges. After 20 minutes flight from Jomsom, then you take a connecting flight from Pokhara to Kathmandu. Rest of the day in Kathmandu is free. You can either let go the strains of Upper Dolpo trek and enjoy the evening strolling down the street of Thamel or rest in the hotel..
This is a contingency day in case of flight delays. If you have free time, you can let go the strains of trekking in the Himalaya. You can explore around the Heritage sites in the city, stroll down the streets of Thamel for local cultural experience, visit nearby monasteries, relax at a spa center or do some souvenir haunting in the local bazaar..
Our Nepali support team will take you to the airport for your flight home. On the other hand, if you prefer to stay longer, you can go for short tours such as game drive at National parks, rafting, Tibet tours, mountain biking, etc. – ask us..
During trek your main luggage will be carried by porters. You simply carry a day pack with water bottle, camera, sun-screen, spare jacket, etc. - a small load that allows full enjoyment of the trek. A trek bag is ideal for your main luggage, plus a small lockable bag for travel clothes or anything that you do not need during trek which you can leave at hotel’s locker room/safe deposit box in Kathmandu for free of charge. Weight allowance at Nepal’s domestic airlines is 15 Kgs, excess weight is chargeable at USD 1 or more per Kilo depending on sectors.
Comprehensive list of equipments will be provided once you book your trip or check CLOTHING AND
EQUIPMENT LIST LINK.
Dinner is usually served between 6 and 7 pm. After dinner, the evening will often be spent playing cards and talking with the crew, or perhaps even joining in some singing and dancing, before heading off to the tent for a well-earned sleep.
You need to pass on your International flight details to us for a “meeting and greeting” service at airport. You just pass on the Customs and come out of the Terminal building where you will see someone standing with a placard with either ‘Explore Himalaya’ or your name written on it. Our airport representative or tour officer will greet you and welcome you with a garland.
We run the trek according to the guidelines of the International Porter Protection group (IPPG - www.ippg.net).
Great trek, very well organized. Very interesting trek because of the geographical and cultural characteristics of Upper Dolpo. It is also quite challenging because of its length and remoteness. Having done a number of other treks in Nepal and elsewhere I decided to take up the challenge. Crossing Kang La was special. Support staff were faultless. They were very strong, experienced, helpful and know the area very well. See pictures and interview in our blog.
Crossing Kang La was special. Support staff were faultless. They were very strong, experienced, helpful and know the area very well. Great trek, very well organized.
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