Ama Dablam Expedition

An expedition to Ama Dablam is technically demanding and has it all ice, rock, scrambling, killer views, great approach and the great base camp in a meadow with a stream. The expedition offers a superb, technical climbing experience in the heart of Khumbu region just above Thayanboche monastery on the way to Everest Base Camp. From the summit, out of six highest peaks in the world are clearly visible of five highest peaks Mt Lhotse, Mt. Lhotse Shar, Mt. Makalu, Mt. Cho – Oyu, and Mt. Everest, and also close view of Nuptse, Baruntse and Pumari. Since its ascent in 1961 by an Anglo American / New Zealand team, it has been frequently climbed and by many different routes.

Our ascent will be made via the conventional SW ridge route, which involves pure rock climbing. The last section to the summit involves ice climbing followed by a long steep snow slope. Due to the technical nature of the route, that requires 3500 meters of fixed rope and three camps above the base camp. Normally the climb is completed in less than four weeks. However, we do build in an extra few days in case of unexpected bad weather.

Outline Itinerary

  • Day 1 Arrive Kathmandu (1520m) - Check-in to your Hotel.
  • Day 2 In Kathmandu
  • Day 3 In Kathmandu
  • Day 4 Fly to Lukla (2842mm). Trek to Phakding (2610m)
  • Day 5 Trek to Namche (3444m)
  • Day 6 In Namche
  • Day 7 Trek to Pangcoche (3989m)
  • Day 8 In Pangboche
  • Day 9-24 Ascent of Mt. Ama Dablam
  • Day 25-27 Retreat Trek to Lukla
  • Day 28 Return flight to Kathmandu
  • Day 29 In Kathmandu
  • Day 30 Depart from Kathmandu


  • 5nights Kathmandu 3star accommodation on twin sharing basis with breakfast.
  • Flight from Kathmandu to Lukla return and airport taxes.
  • Cargo of gear to Lukla, porters and yaks to base camp and return to Kathmandu.
  • Comfortable sherpa lodges on the trek in to base camp plus 2 days on the way out.
  • Base camp facility, bright spacious group tent, heat, solar power, toilet.
  • Sherpa Cook and staff with all meals while at base camp.
  • Basic All high altitude mountain food
  • All climbing Sherpa staff on mountain and base camp staff.
  • Climbing permit
  • Satellite phone to keep in touch with home.
  • Peak Fee and all Nepalese Govt. Fees.
  • Environment fees, permits, mandatory Liaison officers and their fees/expenses.
  • All group on mountain equipment such as tents, stoves, fuel, ropes, party first aid.
  • High Altitude recover chamber
  • Airfare to and from Kathmandu to your home and airport taxes.
  • Drinks, mineral water, laundry, postage, telephone calls and other items of a personal nature.
  • Meals in Kathmandu.
  • Entry Visa fee & International departure tax
  • Emergency Evacuation- Personal accident insurance
  • Personal climbing equipment.

Detailed Itinerary

  • Day 1


    After arrival we will be met and taken to our Hotel. Kathmandu is a strange mixture of Tibetan Buddhism, Hinduism and Western influence. There are many great attractions and sightseeing tours can be arranged with a guide accompanying you (optional ) or perhaps you can explore around on your own..

  • Day 2


    At leisure in Kathmandu. While the guides sort out the expedition paper work, you will be able to explore this fascinating medieval city, crowded bazaars, Hindu and Buddhist temples, shrines. It is a wonderful mixture of an ancient, colonial and modern architecture.

  • Day 3


    Free day in Kathmandu.. This day in Kathmandu is an opportunity to hire any pieces of mountaineering equipment you do not already have..

  • Day 4


    The 40 minutes flight from Kathmandu to Lukla is one of the most spectacular flights in the world. The sixteen seated TWIN OTTER, takes us towards East into the heart of the Sherpa country, giving us breathtaking views of the mountain peaks of the Khumbu region, including Mt. Everest and the alluring Ama Dablam. The aircraft landing on this tiny air-strip at Lukla to put in simple words is - it is going to be madly exciting - getting chills up your spine!No-sooner after the landing, we will be setting off along the famous trail walking towards North-west and descending to the river side at Phakding 2,652m. Continuing further through attractive fir forests to Chumda and set up our camps for the night (walking approximately 5 hours)..

  • Day 5


    After early breakfast, we begin climbing up the steep hill towards Namche Bazaar. If the sky is clear we can see the glorious Mt. Everest the tallest mountain of the world and next the Lhotse. We will reach to Namche after approximately six hours. It's a prosperous and largest town in the Khumbu region populated by the Sherpas who all resembles with the Tibetan people in looks and cultures also the same. The town is vibrant with many well stocked shops, typical restaurants and hotels, as a whole it all looks marvelous with the breathtaking close views of the snow-capped mountains all around. Some of us may likely face little problem in breathing as Namche is 3,445 meters above the sea level., therefore, we will spend two nights here for acclimatization..

  • Day 6

    REST DAY in Namche Bazaar.


  • Day 7


    No sooner it is morning we have the fantastic views of Mt. Ama Dablam and other mountain ranges all around us. We continue trekking heading North-East along the side of Dudh Koshi river. The trail descends going through moss and rhododendron forests to the river bank leading further along the river side to Phungithanga. After crossing the river Dudh Koshi over a bridge at this point, the trail lead climbing up a hill to the saddle top to Thyangboche. Thyangboche is the main important monastery in Khumbu region. Old (the first original one) Thyangboche monastery was destroyed by accidental fire in the year 1989. The main village is situated at the base of Mt. Kangtaiga and from the spur of this ridge top we can have the excellent panoramic views of the main mountain peaks including - Mt. Everest, Lhotse and the Ama Dablam. We settle down for the night camping near by the monastery. (walking involves 6 hours)..

  • Day 8


    Trekking for about 2-3 hours up the valley heading towards the Everest Base Camp, our trail lead turning right then climbing up further to next valley and to our Base Camp at an elevation of 4,570 meters. We camp along the excellent spot from where majority of the climbing routes are visible. The atmosphere naturally will be pleasant; in cool serenity. The porters will be busy then, with loads for next couple of week time. Remaining staff at the Base Camp include - a Cook, Sirdar, other staff, and the Liaison Officer..

  • Day 9-24


    We have to understand and be flexible with the time, as it would not be possible to stick to our day to day itinerary exactly during ascent period, due to unpredictable weather conditions in the mountains. As a whole the group will be working out on the mountains. The MAIN TEAM will SPLIT into groups - the climbing group and task group. The groups - while group 'A' is studying the route and fixing ropes the other group 'B' will be carrying necessary loads to higher camps. The route description is as such, of the expedition team (led by Ray Delaney) that have scaled Mt. Ama Dablam during the year 1990…From the Base Camp --- Route leads through grassy ridges heading eastward to a broad saddle. From this point we can see the Mingbo La (high pass). We now head to North direction climbing up the rocky grounds then across the boulders to a ridge, a site for Camp I at an elevation of 5,705 meters. Here, there are 5-6 natural platforms suitable for pitching up tents. From Camp I --- Cross a rocky bowl (tricky if snow covered) until, below two rock fingers, then move on to the ridge proper. Climbing the ridge involves rock climbing of severe standard with steps of VS (USA 5.6) Camp II is at the top of a yellow tower, which gives one of the hardest pitches on the climb at VS/Hard VS (5.8). From Camp II --- Skirt a red rock bluff on the East and follow a ramp line to a gray tower. Move into the ramp (some stone fall danger) and climb to an amphitheater. Continue up a broad gully formed between the gray tower and the lower rock buttress and climb a snow slope to 'Santa's Grotto' at the start of the mushroom ridge. Follow the mushroom ridge to a crevasse in the upper face, which offers fantastic site. Climb the snow / ice slope to the right of the face, then follow mixed ground to the top of the highest hanging glacier. An ice crest now leads in a magnificent position to the summit. We have the glorious - grand views!.

  • Day 25-27


    Overnight Camp..

  • Day 28


    Transfer to the hotel. Time for relaxation..

  • Day 29


    Free day in Kathmandu.

  • Day 30


    Transfer to Airport to Depart Kathmandu for onward journey..

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