The Dhami and the Dhamini, the central figures in the whole rituals of the festival

This year also we have come up with some fresh updates on Sidhure Jatra, a unique cultural spectacle observed in Nuwakot. Sindhure Jatra, which literally means “vermillion powder festival”, is celebrated annually at Nuwakot Durbar Square vicinity in Nuwakot district.  Nuwakot Durbar Square, an iconic landmark with Seven Story Palace, Bhairabi Temple, Taleju Bhawani, Narayan Temple and  Bishnu Temple, is 75 km north of Kathmandu valley. Situated at a hilltop, overlooking the valley, the Durbar Square and its town is historically and culturally an important place having a significant connection to King Prithivi Narayan Shah, the founder of modern Nepal.

Nuwakot Durbar Square

Kumari of Nuwakot, who starts the festival by performing an ablution ritual to the Dhami

 “Sindhure Jatra” is celebrated on Chaitra Purnima (March/April) for 10-12 days mainly by Newar community. This year, it falls from 30^th March to 10^th April. The festival marks the Nepali New Year and arrival of spring season. During the festival, people worship Goddess Bhairabi, observe various rituals and feast with family members. The major highlight of the festival is the chariot procession of Goddess Bhairabi to Devighat, where the Goddess meets her sister Jalpa Devi. The special meeting takes place only once a year, in which the Dhami (the Priest) is believed to gain the power by the grace of the Goddesses to foretell the future of the country. As per the tradition, the Dhami, then, tells the prophesy to the State representative in secret. During the procession, people smear Sindur (orange vermillion powder), and sing and dance to the tune of traditional music. Not only the locals, the State army and people from the neighboring region also come to participate and observe the festival. The festival, which is also considered as having the longest chariot procession in Nepal, is one of liveliest festivals offering some of the lesser known but fascinating cultural display of Nepal.

Let’s have a look at the daily activities of the festival:

Day 01: 30^th March/16^th Chaitra: The first day ritual starts from the evening time. Living Goddess Kumari and Dhami perform a special ritual bath in which the priest receives the ablution ritual by Goddess Kumari symbolizing the purification process. Then after the priest performs special puja in the temple. In the premises of the temple, two wooden poles are erected, which will be pulled down at the end of the day.

Kumari, the Living Goddess of Nuwakot

The Procession 

Day 02: 31^st March/17^thChaitra: On this day, devotes carry the chariot of Goddess Bhairabi to Devighat (Riverbank), where the Goddess meets her sister. The procession takes about 4-5 hours. They stay overnight there and perform puja.   Day 03: 01^st April/18^thChaitra: Early morning, puja ritual includes the sacrifices of 108 he-goats (which are not castrated yet), which the Dhami offers to the Goddesses. The Dhami, by the power of the Goddesses, gets the insight to foresee the country’s future, which he tells to the State representative in secret.  After the whole ritual finishes, at about mid-night the Chariot is brought back to her own Temple to Nuwakot Durbar Square. However, they dont go to the temple directly but rest at Dharampani. Later on, the procession continues to the temple from the same place accompanied by State Army with great honor and elaborate music.    

Day 04: 02^nd April/19^thChaitra: Sindure Jatra (vermillion powder) festival, after which the whole festival is named, is observed on this day. The festival starts, after “Dware”, a State representative, scatter Sindur to the Dhamini, Dhami and the devotees. Then after, everyone smear the powder to each other. The ritual symbolizes the celebration of victory.

 Day 05: 03^rd April/20^th Chaitra: On this day, the Dhami performs another ritual following the sacrifice of the goats and buffaloes in the premises of Bhairabi Temple. He sucks the blood for three times as a part of ritual.                       

The Dhami sucking blood from the sacrificed goat

 Day 06-10: 04^th – 08^th  April/ 21^st -25^th Chaitra:  During these days, devotees and locals gather and have feast.  

Day 11: 09^th April/ 26^th Chaitra: A special puja is performed to the Wooden Pole which was raised on the first day. Locals gather around Bhairabi Temple to pull down one wooden pole, and the other one is left for the next day’s ritual.

 Day 12: 10^th April/ 27^th Chaitra: Today is the final day. The second wooden pole is brought down following the same ritual as the previous day and the festival comes to an end.

Honey Hunter at work! (Picture Credit: The Guardian)

Treacherous cliff, swarm of angry bees and just a dangling slender rope ladder to hold your life – can anyone think of any other act as extreme as this?
This daring act is performed, every Spring and Autumn, by Gurung and Magar tribesmen of Annapurna region in a bid to harvest honey of the giant Himalayan wild bees from their nests overhanging on the vertical rock faces. This honey hunting practice is also found among other communities in lesser known areas like Dhading, Jharlang across Ganesh Himal and Arun Valley of Makalu Barun area. As this practice is carried out in an insanely extreme working condition by just using some primitive tools, it can be rightly called as a testament of perseverance and fortitude that equals any death defying endurance feat.

The honey hunter in the middle of nowhere (Picture Credit: National Geographic)

The whole ritual of honey hunting is carried out with great care – any misjudgment can be fatal, or at least be ominous! The activity starts right from choosing an auspicious day to carry out the hunt to appeasing the Forest spirits, which is as crucial as their survival in the wilderness! However, the core activity involves hanging from vertical cliffs as high as 300m using a hand-made ladder of bamboo and ropes to harvest the honeycombs from the nests of Apis Dorsata Laboriosa, the world’s largest honey bee. The nest can be found perched in the sheer rock face at an altitude ranging from 2500m to 3000m. But, strangely enough the hunters don’t use any additional gears and safety equipments. The only thing they seem to have is the faith in the Forest Spirits who they have appeased before starting the act.

Some bamboo poles, a basket and a hunter with faith larger than life; one needs to see it to believe it! (Picture Credit: Eric Valli)

The most intense situation starts when the hunter climbs the rope carrying a bamboo stick with a sharp end and a tuft of smoldering grass to make the bees confused. With every step upward, the climb becomes more edgy and the height more dizzying. After he reaches the nests, taking the opportune time when the bees are driven out, he pokes the honeycomb with the sharp end of the bamboo stick, and slices it off which is collected in a basket lowered by the helpers from above. Phew, it’s finally done but the hunter still has a long way to climb down safely to celebrate the success of his prized honey.
Why people risk their life? Does the battle against thousands of angered bees really worth it? Though the hallucinogenic quality and medicinal value has made the honey 7-8 times more valuable than the normal honey in the market, the reason doesn’t just seem enough. The way the tribesmen are giving continuity to the tradition with such reverence and dedication indicate to something deeper and subtler beyond our comprehension, something we may never understand.

The prized honey! (Picture Credit: Eric Valli)

Now, the practice is not just an esoteric ritual hunting limited to certain communities. Its antiquity, unsullied continuity and surreal appeal is making it increasingly popular among the curious minds. Thanks to Eric Valli and Diane Summers, the pioneer documentary makers who made this largely unobserved cultural practice known to the wider global audience. Now, there are many tour operators that are easing the curious travelers to honey hunting destinations. Though there is a wide range of award winning documentaries and videos on this practice, it is so out of the world that one needs to see it to believe it!
[If you are interested in the tour, we are more than happy to make your adventure one of its kind.]

At Annapurna Base Camp (4130m)

This February, we welcomed a mammoth group of 54 Singaporean corporate travelers from Pejandy Corporation Pte Ltd. The group spent 5 nights 6 days in the two iconic cities of Nepal, Kathmandu and Pokhara.  The cultural tour that started from 14 February not just included the natural and cultural highlights but also had special delights like Annapurna Heli Tour, mountain flight, Zipflyer, Chinese New Year celebration and even a refreshing picnic in the wood. This tour provided the members with a welcome relief from their daily work life, and also offered them a chance to share beautiful moments together, which helps in making Pejandy a bigger and stronger family.

At Kade, pick up point for Heli tour

This multi activity tour comprised of Singaporean families including two Greek travelers with members ranging from 6 years of age to 80. So, the trip was more like an extended family tour rather than a bunch of colleagues just sharing corporate bonding. The group started their tour with a mountain flight the very next day after arriving in Kathmandu. After the magical views of stunning Himalayan range, they flew to Pokhara. Enroute they had yet another beautiful aerial experience of endless Himalayas including majestic Mt Manaslu and Annapurna. Once in Pokhara, they explored the city, did boating and had a pleasant stroll along lakeside- something typical in Pokhara. However, that was just a beginning. On 17^th Feb, the group had a picnic at Dibolla, a quaint wooded area with a flowing river nearby. The same evening, they had a mini “lantern festival” to welcome Chinese New Year “The Year of Dog”. Well, a tranquil evening and gliding lantern rising up and up was some sight to behold!

Zipflying, a vertical drop of 600 metres covering a distance of 1.8 km with an inclination of 56 degree.

After Zipflying!!!

At Pokhara Airport

The next day came with another greater delight of having an adventurous heli tour to Annapurna Base Camp. To organize a heli tour in the Himalayas for a group of 54 people was a feat in itself. However, everything went perfect with our two standby choppers. Thanks to Fishtail Air, one of our subsidiaries, who made this challenging tour flawless and memorable! After the real close up view of Annapurna, the members flew back to Kathmandu on the same day.

The thrilling memories of Pokhara were still fresh in mind but Kathmandu was all set to offer some historic moments. In Kathmandu, they visited two UNESCO World Heritage sites, Swayambhu and Patan Durbar Square. Both places known for immense architectural and cultural wonders offered rare glimpses of the heritages dating back to medieval age of Nepal. Finally after spending 6 days exploring the two mesmerizing cities, the trip concluded. However, the trip was not limited to touring alone – the group also took delight in the culinary richness of Nepal in some handpicked restaurants in Kathmandu and Pokhara including Kava, Pho 99, Boomerang, Mezze, Evoke, Gokarna House etc. 

So as you can see, so many things and so few days – yet the trip made sure to hit up all the best spots and best activities by the end.  As it is said “A happy employee is a happy business”, so needless to say, “Happy Pejandy” at the end! If you are also thinking of doing similar corporate incentive tours, just let us know at  enquiry@explorehimalaya.com . We are always ready for some extra miles! 

Pabitra Samaaj Sewa Building Project Donors’ List so far: 

1. Explore Himalaya & Himalayan Pre Fab – US $8775
2. Marcus Brown, C/O Deepak Dhamala, Nepalese Honorary Consulate General Adelaide – AUS $7000           
3. Lars Gundersen, Kipling Travel Denmark – €500
4. Sujeeta Shahi – €500 
5. Kantipur Electrical – NPR 11,100                                            
6. Joseph Shrestha- NPR 10,000                                                     
7. Ram Narayan Bhai – NPR 10,000                                             
8. Hema Shahi Thakuri – NPR 1000   

[We are still raising fund for the completion of the project. Interested donors can contact us at suman@explorehimalaya.com]                                    

Mr. Marcus Brown laying the Foundation Stone at the building site

The Foundation Stone Laying Ceremony of Pabitra Samaaj Sewa building was held on 30 January 2018 at Budhanilkantha. The foundation stone was laid by respected Marcus Brown from Adelaide amidst the presence of Dikchhya Chapagain, President of Pabitra Samaaj Sewa and the Representatives of Explore Himalaya and Himalayan Pre-Fab. The pre-fab building will provide a permanent earthquake resistant shelter to 15-20 residents under the care of the organization.

Preparing for Puja before laying the Foundation Stone

The building project was jointly initiated by Explore Himalaya and Himalayan Pre-Fab, a subsidiary of Explore Himalaya; after the residents of Pabitra Samaaj Sewa were forcibly evacuated from their previous resident at Dhapasi. As it was not possible to complete this project without the collective efforts, Explore Himalaya and Himalaya Pre-Fab started the initiation by contributing half of the fund and appealed for the rest from the generous contributors. Mr. Brown, who honored the ceremony, was among the few to extend the hand of support by raising funds from Adelaide community. The project has given hopes and happiness to all the destitute sheltering in the organization. The building is expected to complete within 6 weeks. For the full story on the building project, please follow our earlier blog at https://www.explorehimalaya.com/2018/01/05/pabitra-samaj-sewa-charity-project/ 

Mr. Marcus Brown writing on visitors’ book

[In addition to being a trailblazer in Himalayan adventure, Explore Himalaya is also one of the forerunners in Nepali tourism to incorporate community service in company’s regular activities.]

[Kipling India Travels (KI) is a subsidiary of Explore Himalaya (EH). KI specializes in operating unique tours with class and comfort throughout India, Nepal, Bhutan and Sri Lanka. Some of the special tours being operated regularly by KI are culinary tours, Snow Leopard Tour, Birding Tour etc. In this series, we are writing about these tours to share the unique experiences had by KI clients to EH travelers so that our travelers will know, consider, or maybe plan for the next holiday. PHOTO CREDIT: Prakash Subba, Sr. Manager Operations and Business Development, Kipling India]

Travelling, to many, is scrambling over rocky faces, lolling in endless beaches or getting lost in the labyrinth of ancient civilizations. However, to some, it’s knowing the secret of culture by indulging in its food heritage. Kipling India with its tantalizing trip “Culinary & Cultural Tour” is catching this spirit of gastronomes for whom food is a serious business. This unique tour that combines the culinary virtuosity of Delhi, Jaipur, Agra and Lucknow; embarks upon a journey of authentic Indian food culture where one can discover an energetic mélange of culture, aroma and flavors.

At Lucknow!

 In October 2015, Kipling India had its “all-lady” group of six members from the US and Canada. As it was the first time ever for both Kipling India and the visitors, the excitement was at par for both. The trip was a mix of culture, history and spiritual beauty while indulging the palate with exotic food and drink where the bustling populous land and its vibrancy reveal the true essence of a culturally rich country. This unique trip began in Delhi, where the members prowled the alleys in bazaar in search of tantalizing street food, luncheoned at a traditional Haweli, and explored the old city in rickshaw before heading to the magical city of Jaipur, where the adventurous food walk was accompanied by the heritage tour of Amber Fort. After the trip, they headed to Agra to visit the Taj Mahal, the wondrous architectural masterpiece and finally the whole tour culminated at Lucknow to experience the best of Awadhi cuisine before finally heading to Delhi. Since the tour is blend of cultural simplicity and culinary sophistication, no wonder, it is one of the best trips Kipling Travel has ever operated.

Rogan Gosh, a signature dish of non-veg Indian cuisine

Outline Program:

Day 01 : Arrive Delhi.

Day 02 : Tour of the city with cooking class.

Day 03 : Food walk of Old Delhi.

Day 04 : Drive to Jaipur (280 kms/06 hrs). Evening food walk.

Day 05 : Tour of the city with cooking class.

Day 06 : Drive to Agra (250 kms/05 hrs) via FatepurSikri.

Day 07 : Visit Taj Mahal and Fort. Evening food walk.

Day 08 : Express train to Lucknow (05 hrs). Dinner of Awadhi cuisine.

Day 09 : Tour of the city with Culinary walk in the evening.

Day 10 :Tour of the city with cooking class.

Day 11 : Fly Delhi. Evening farewell dinner.

Day 12 : Depart Delhi for home.

Kala Jamun and Gujiya: Indian Palate is incomplete without Sweet Delicacies

Detailed Activities:

25 Oct: Upon their arrival in Delhi, they were greeted with warm welcome and then transferred to their hotel. At hotel the briefing session added real fuel to their excitement.

26 Oct: If you think today is the day of ruins, forts and statues, you’d be wrong! The tour started with food walk of Old Delhi, where the guests experienced heritage and bazaar walk, cycle rickshaw ride with some street food tasting followed by local home visit with traditional lunch in a Haveli (Old private mansion). Delhi is a city of fascinating contrasts where the old and new, cultural and contemporary, rural and urban, all blend harmoniously. Food walks in Old Delhi can be best enjoyed in its original setting, in noisy labyrinthine by lanes of Chawri Bazaar and Chandni Chowk. The dishes on can savor in Old Delhi are large, thick and juicy jalabis, Aloo Chaat (Crisp fried potato) dunked in a mélange of chutneys; varieties of stuffed paranthas (potato, onion, cottage cheese, cauliflower etc). For desserts one can try out the creamy, delicious phirni and Kulfi. Followed by city tour of New Delhi, the guests really enjoyed the visit to Sikh Temple (Bangla Sahab Gurudwara) to witness the Community kitchen and try their hands on making rotis (Chapatis).

A medley of mouth freshner

Kulfi, a popular Indian ice-cream

27/28 Oct: After Delhi they departed to Jaipur, the Pink City and the Capital of Rajasthan, the city which has always fascinated visitors with its vibrant people, magnificent forts and food.  They spent two days in this magical city to experience the magnificent Amber Fort and amazing food walk. The walk gave them a fantastic experience of street food, colorful shops and plenty of photo opportunities. Compared to Delhi, Food walk in Jaipur is different for its much organized lanes and colorful shops. They visited LMB (Laxmi Mistan Bhandar) sweet shop, one of the oldest restaurants established in 1949. It is famous for its delicious snacks like Paneer Ghewar, Doodh Feeni, Rasmalai etc to name a few.

Tandoori Kabab, one of the most loved chicken dishes in India

29 Oct: Today is the day when the guests had the opportunity to visit the Taj Mahal, the mausoleum that defines architectural grandeur and immortalized love. They left  just before sunrise to be the first in line to visit the Taj Mahal in the cool morning and in the best light. The best part at this time in the morning is there are so few tourists you practically have the Taj to yourself- No crowds to fight through and plenty of opportunities to take photos in the most dramatic lighting. The Taj experience was an incredibly moving experience to them. In the evening they proceeded for food walk in the busy non-touristy market where they indulged in some of Agra’s best local food and sweets including Petha, Kababs and Kulfi (Indian Ice cream).

Indian Dessert, a fusion of simplicity and sophistication!

30 Oct: They boarded the Shatabdi train early in the morning for a six hour comfortable ride to Lucknow, the city of the Nawabs which is  famous all over the world for its Tehzeeb, “the graceful etiquette”. It can very well termed as a city that has carved a niche by attracting gastronomes for the want of discovering and re – discovering the Awadhi Cuisine. Lucknow has a colony of chefs called “Bawarchi Tola”. In the evening guests were treated with Awadhi dinner. They had experienced the concept of food loyalty and the real taste of the original Tundey Kebabs, Raheem’s Nihari and Mobeen’s Pasanda Kebabs. Besides food tasting tours, they had an Awadhi cooking session with an expert at the place of a local host to give them a first-hand experience on the use of spices and method of making an authentic Indian Cuisine. The cooking workshop was followed by an orientation session.

Learning by Doing

After Cooking Session

Food tasting at Lucknow

31 Oct: On the last day we flew back to Delhi and in the evening we concluded our tour with an amazing farewell dinner at Indian Accent, the restaurant popular for showcasing inventive Indian cuisine by complementing the flavors and traditions of India with global ingredients and techniques. Indian Accent is the only award winning Indian restaurant to be featured in the World’s 50 Best Restaurants 2017.

01 Nov: As it is said every good thing must come to an end, the concluding day of this eventful tour also came close. The guests bade final goodbye with lots of memories to cherish forever.

Farewell Dinner at Indian Accent

This tour made a simple traveler a sophisticated foodie who explored the culinary maze with closed eyes and let their taste buds do the rest! Kipling India’s Culinary tours stood out as it operated in small group rather than a bus full of strangers, with a local host that made them feel quite at home. The whole experience allowed them to be connected with trendy neighborhoods with smart cafés, bars, restaurants and interesting shops and boutiques. They also used the metro and auto rickshaws to zoom around these places with ease – just like a local. In the meantime, however, they didn’t miss the opportunity to focus major sites but in a whole interesting way. To sum up, the members had the experience of lifetime that feasts both their soul and palate! If you are also interested in experimenting your taste buds and being a member of the gastronome community in some of the finest cultural cities, the trip is the made for you!