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CLIMBING SHISHAPANGMA (42 Days)
ABC SUPPORT


If you think you are ready to climb an 8000er, then some of the thrilling and daring choices are Cho Oyu, Shishapangma (both to be climbed from Tibet) and Gasherbrum II ( Pakistan). The route to Shishapangma is relatively safe climb. It is not as crowded as Cho Oyu, so you can look ahead for a 'just our team and the mountain' experience.

Shishapangma is the 14th highest mountain in the world The altitude at the peak ranges from 8012m to 8046m. The mountain has two summits. The commonly climbed Central summit (8012m) has been summitted by four expedition teams whose expedition we helped organized.

Before the Chinese opened Tibet  to western mountaineers in 1970, little was known about Shishapangma. The only 8000m peak to lie entirely  in Tibet, it lies tantalizingly close to the Nepalese border, shrouded behind the great, but less high, board peaks of Langtang.

It is perhaps not surprising that it was the last of the 8,000m peaks to be climbed. Not that its ascent the North-Western Ridge presents any great difficulty. On the contrary, it is now regarded as one of the most straight-forward 8,000m climbs and its summit is frequently achieved. Regarded as a "holy" mountain by the local Tibetan population, and lying on the route to Mt. Kailash, Shishapangma continues to baffle us. Historians cannot fathom her names - Shishapangma, Xizabangma, Gosainthan, and surveyors seem unable to fix her height ( anything from 8,012m to 8,046m ) Even the first ascent by the Chinese in 1964 is questioned, due to the lack of photographic evidence and the fact that the summit ridge sports several subsidiary "summits". Yet, the mountain is perhaps the most accessible of her genre, rising only a few miles west of the Kathmandu-Lhasa Highway.

IThe original North West Ridge route is an excellent objectively quite safe, and the terrain offers good  camp sites at the Tibetan Plateau (lying in the Himalayan Shadow usually provide excellent topping-out opportunities).

Trip Facts
Outline itineray


Trip length
: 42 Days
Starts in: Kathmandu
Ends in: Kathmandu
Accommodation: Hotel, Lodge and camping
Transportation: 4WD Land cruiser with support truck, flight

Maximum altitude: 8027m


Please contact us at: enquiry@explorehimalaya.com

06-Apr Arrive Kathmandu
07-Apr In Kathmandu
08-Apr Nyalam
09-Apr Nyalam
10-Apr Base camp
11-Apr- 15-Apr Base camp
16-Apr Advance Base Camp (ABC)
17-Apr- 17 May Climb
18-May Base camp
19-May Nyalam
20-May Kathmandu
 
Dates & Price

DEPARTURES 2008:
06th April - 20th May 2008
We finish after summitting

PRICE:
US$6750

OUR SERVICE INCLUDES:
Includes (Zhangmu entry and exit)
Climbing permit
Kathmandu to Border & border to base camp transfers and back.
Kitchen service with all meals at ABC.
Liaison officer, Tibet visa, Yaks (3 yaks up BC to ABC & 2 yaks ABC to BC and 1 yak for Sherpa: 1 yak 40 Kgs in spring & 50 Kgs in autumn) Guest house enroute with all meals

OUR SERVICE EXCLUDES:
insurance, Nepal visas, meals in Kathmandu
personal climbing equipment
emergency evacuation
Cimbing Sherpas
international flights, equipment rental, alcohol and soft drinks, laundry, tipping and other items of a personal nature

Detailed itinerary

Nepalese side of the border or Zhangmu - Early in the morning we take a bus drive along the Friendship - Highway to Zhangmu at the Nepal-Tibet frontier. The journey normally may take about 5 to 6 hours depending on the condition of the road, and sometime likely the landslides that could double this journey time. We will stay on the Nepalese side of the border, or perhaps in Zhagmu, just up the hill on the Tibetan side.

Nyalam 3,600 metres. Our jeeps and trucks meander their way up the precipitous mountain road - " the road to hell " as the Chinese literally express and we have the opportunity now to find it out for our-self, why. The journey to Nyalam is a short day and gives us some opportunity  to acclimatise.

Nyalam - Rest day at Nyalam for acclimatisation.             

Base Camp (4,900m.)- We depart on the vehicles and drive up the side of a huge gorge, eventually emerging onto the barren Tibetan plateau. The change of landscape is strange, form the lush Nepalese countryside to arid mountain desert. Magnificent views of Shishapagma and many other mountains make today's road journey an eternal memories. After crossing the Thang La (5,200m.) we turn off the Lhasa highway and head west along the road to Mt. Kailash for a further 25 km. Turning south on to an even smaller track, we eventually arrive at Base Camp (4,900m.), This is situated close to Yambughangala river which drains the north side of Shishapagma.

Base Camp- Our first two days at Base Camp are spent preparing out equipment and organizing loads for the yaks. These are important days for our acclimatization, as we will all feel the effects of living at nearly 5,000m. and we need to be in good shape for the long route to Advance Base Camp.

Tibet Shishapangma expedition

Advance base camp(5,800m.) - After loading up the yaks with all of out equipment we will set off with them on the 12 mile/20 km. trek to Advance Base Camp (ABC). Initially we follow a jeep track to a plateau above the river and them the west bank of the valley to ABC near the snout of the Yambughangala Glacier (5,800m.) This is in very impressive situation, with the giant white pinnacles of the glacier leading  up the valley to Shishapangma. Here we unload the yaks and set up the camp which will be the take-off point for the climb. From here on we will have to do our own load carrying!

The Climb - This expedition is on ABC support servicve only. From now on, you'll be moving up on your own.

Base Camp - All expedition members and equipment will need to be back at Base Camp by today, ready for our departure tomorrow. Once again, yaks will be used to transport all expedition equipment from ABC to Base Camp.

Nyalam

Kathmandu - Drive to Kathmandu and transfer to the hotel.

Note : This itinerary is intend to be a guideline only we will do our best to adhere to it as closely as possible, but unexpected events may force changes to be made at the last moment. Please be prepared to be flexible if necessary.

Tibet Shishapangma expedition

Warning

We have run many successful and safe expeditions however you must understand this is as real as it gets. We try our best with safety and gear within the limits of the expedition budget and the success rates for Shishapangma (Central summit) are high, but this is 8000m and anything can happen. Even with good gear, good everything, the risk of death is small BUT REAL. There is UNAVOIDABLE avalanche danger, although the probability is low. If you haven't climbed to 8000m before you will find the mountain bigger and scarier than you ever imagined.

We try our best and we are very responsible, caring  people HOWEVER we are not liable for anything, full stop.

Attitude
Mentally, you should not be on this expedition unless you think you can climb to the summit, there is a lot of power is positive thinking. At the same time you must be prepared for disappointment; conditions may not be perfect, you may struggle at extreme altitude etc.

Experience and fitness
Despite the relatively non-technical nature you MUST have some mountaineering experience and MUST have been to 6000m before. The fitter you are when you arrive the better. You must be at least moderately fit, your fitness will build remarkably on the mountain. Don't underestimate the difficulty and strength of will required to climb at over 7000m.

All Photos by Jamie Mc Guinness from our 2005 expedition

Contact

enquiry@explorehimalaya.com

 
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