Friday, June 27th, 2008
This year 257 climbers climbed atop
Record number of summits in a day - On
Appa Sherpa- Broke his own record by making this his 18th ascent, the maximum made by any person.
Min Bahadur Sherchan - The 77 years old from Myagdi district,
Monday, June 2nd, 2008
“It felt like some faraway place… like South Pole “- Søren Smidt of 7 Summits On Everest
EH had the opportunity to talk at length with Søren Smidt of 7 Summits, on the 29th of May, about his Everest summit and their (his & Henrik’s plans and future goals). Here we reproduce the excerpt from the interview.
At Everest
We spent a very short time on Everest .We were there for just 20 days. Some of the climbers spent 60 to 65 days and that’s very tiring to be in this environment. For us it was a short and fast climb. We meant to do Mera peak and Lobuche but we did not do it. There were some regulations for the Olympic torch by the Chinese so the Nepalese authorities put some regulations and in the end we dropped our climb on Mera peak and our climb on Lobuche. During the time the climbing was banned we went to Russia and climbed Mt. Elbrus. It was very cold and windy .Just managed to get back safely.
On the Day they summitted (25th May ‘08)
We had a very good summit day, the weather was good and there were few people and good Sherpas helping us. Our Sherpas were very good, technically great. We are grateful to them because they helped us in many ways. When I arrived at the summit there was no wind. Henrik came a little later and already it was becoming windy. But we faced no problems going down. We had a weather report which actually said that it would be stormy. So the whole time we climbed during the night we were afraid that the wind would pick up and when we looked up around midnight all we could see were clouds forming on the summit. So we thought the weather report may be right but luckily there was no wind. During the climb there just a little wind when Henrik arrived.
At the summit, I would say that we feel very vulnerable .I felt very vulnerable in the summit area and at the whole summit bridge. It really felt like some very faraway place on earth , like South- Pole .You know if the wind picks up, if you get a lot of precipitation you may lose your life easily. The balance between living and dying is very thin. Jamie McGuiness tried to rescue some climbers. He did a great effort, more then I would have done. It’s very sad that some people do not realize their own limits and endanger other people’s lives because responsible people will try and rescue other people who are in need of help.
About 7 Summits
Henrik is on a mission to create a world record. He has already summitted all the highest peaks in the 6 continents, only Denali in North America is left. I think this will generate a lot of attention and interest towards our company, 7 Summits. After he has made the record we will use our knowledge of the seven summits to make a profitable business.
We have not started selling any of the products. Let Henrik make the world record and afterwards we can use our knowledge of these peaks to sell our products. Henrik has just to climb Denali in Alaska, the highest peak in North America to make his record. Only sickness or an accident will prevent him from completing this feat. Originally the goal was to climb in 130 days. The current record is 155 days .Due to bad weather we were delayed on Denali and Elbrus. This will be Henrik’s second effort to climb Denali. In 7-13 days, he will have the record.
“Henrik has gone from being businessman to mountaineer, while I will go from being mountaineer to businessman.”
I make the program for his training. Before we started the 7 summits I have been giving a crash course because Henrik is a businessman who is interested in climbing mountains. I gave him the basic technical abilities and understanding of how it works when you go climb and how you behave in a mountain environment both in summer and winter. So this program started half a year ago before and since now has been sufficient. Henrik has gone from being businessman to mountaineer, while I will go from being mountaineer to businessman.
About climbing in Nepal
I have been to Nepal 15 – 20 times. I have climbed for 30 years. I started climbing in Nepal in 1986, when I did the solo Island Peak climb in the winter time. That was my first peak in Nepal. But I have also done Mera Peak and some of the known peaks.
Everest is a very big mountain and even if you think it’s easy its not. The ascent of the 77 year old man can give an impression that climbing the peak is easy but it’s not true. Its a big mountain and its also dangerous and you have to be very well prepared. You have to think very carefully about what you are doing. You have to have a good staff around you and you have to have the right equipment and enough oxygen to help you.
Sunday, June 1st, 2008
Henrik of 7 Summits is on a mission to create a world record by scaling the seven highest summits on the seven continents. He has summitted all the highest peaks in 6 continents .Now only Denali(6194m) the highest peak in North-America is left. Just back after summitting Everest along with Soeren, his partner, EH had a time to catch up with the climbers on 29th May , amidst their plans to fly out ,Henrik to Alaska for the Denali summit and Soeren to Denmark.
They summitted Everest on 25th May. Henrik is 43 years old entrepreneur. Excerpts from the interview with Henrik
EH: You have taken alpinism as a challenge. What inspired you to do this?
Henrik: I don’t know from childhood, I actually found it interesting.I used to cut out articles from newspapers because there was something that would interest me. And the first time I stood on top of a mountain I felt something, a feeling very difficult to describe. It is an unbelievable feeling .Its only you and the mountain.
EH: Among the peaks you have which has been the difficult till date?
Henrik: I would say Everest.
EH: How did you find climbing Everest?
Henrik: I feel very good. It’s a huge,huge mountain.
EH: You are from the corporate world. Do you find any similarities between mountaineering and corporatism?
Henrik: Yes, its similar, because its both about setting up goals and reaching them.
EH: How do you connect your climbing with your corporate life?
Henrik:When you are on a mountain and you find out how difficult things are you try to find solutions and also help in rescues. There’s a lot of things you can take with you into the business area.
EH: Do you have plans to come back to Nepal?
Henrik: Yes, I would like to come back again to do some trekking. But I am also interested in some charity stuff, maybe some scholarships for some academy for Sherpas so they can develop their skills. I think this would be a good way to contribute to Nepal somehow.
Tuesday, May 27th, 2008
On 23rd May’ 08, Explore Himalaya’s in-house writer met with Bo Belvedere Christensen, leader of the Kipling Travels Baruntse Expedition at Hotel Marshyangdi. Mr. Christensen, back in Kathmandu after a successful expedition, looked a bit exhausted but nonetheless happy, as he recounted his team’s wonderful acclimatization climb to both the Mera peaks as well as the arduous climb to Baruntse. Mr. Christensen disclosed that Baruntse was more technical then he had expected. He as well the members had to contend with bad weather conditions and difficult technical climbing on the last leg of the climb, before reaching their goal. Here we reproduce Mr. Christensen’s account of his team’s expedition.
Acclimatization in Mera Peak
We did Mera Peak as an acclimatization climb. We made it to both the summits of the Mera peak, all the members. We had a great climb and got good views from the summit. That was quite successful. But we regarded it as an acclimatization climb. Although Mera regarded as a trekking peak, I don’t think we should undermine it. Climbing Mera peak is an achievement in itself, and though it was not our goal, we had a great climb. All the members summitted and we had very good views from the summit, which we did not get while climbing Baruntse as the weather had turned bad.
Baruntse Challenge
Climbing on Baruntse was a little more technical then we had expected. We actually had to go around 5400-4,400m before the real climbing started. We passed the so called West Col before we got to climb. We had some fixed ropes, ropes our Sherpas had fixed. The first came just about the West Col, at 6100m.We went once there to acclimatize and went down again. A few days later, after a little rest we came up to the camp again and stayed up there till we proceeded somewhat up the slope and again we reached camp 2 after which we came down to the base camp to have some more rest. After this we made the first summit attempt.
First Summit Attempt
Our first attempt ended at around 6,900 m. Well, we climbed to reach the summit but it got very unstable and we decided not to continue because we thought it would be dangerous to go on with the little equipment that we had with us. Before we started for our expedition I had a talk with a Sherpa who had climbed Baruntse some years ago. I guess it was in the year 2000. He had found a pretty easy slope going up against the summit. He said it was a pretty easy slope. We tried to climb up from this slope in our first summit attempt, but we realized that the mountain had changed during the last few years. The slope was not an easy one, it was awkward and we had to abandon our summit attempt .It was an awkward climb.
Final summit attempt 15th of May 11am
But as it turned out we could return later and make a new summit attempt and proceed from the point we had got to in the first attempt and in that attempt to reach the summit. but from the start it’s a long way up from the base camp to the summit. During the real summit attempt our camp 2 was near a camp was established by some English climbers, somewhat higher then our Camp 2, at around 6,500m, in a small col between Baruntse 2 and Baruntse itself. Baruntse 2 is also called Baruntse south-east. The camp lies between the two summits in a saddle like slope. We made this our camp. On the night we before the day we were to summit we didn’t sleep so long .
The very next morning we started for the actual climbing on Baruntse’s south ridge, from where we had made our first summit attempt. We climbed for around 3 hrs.Until we reached the high point of our first summit attempt 6900m. From there we proceeded. There were some steep sections. We could see the summit at the distance. This spurred us to on to make the climb, although we were tired. But it was hard at the end. The two other guys , Martin and Jens , who made it to the summit along with me and the Sherpas , were extremely tired at the end when we got up to the summit plateau. The plateau is sort of a big steep slope, sloping against the summit. So around 11o’clock, on the 15th of May we all three together with 3 Sherpas stood on the summit. We were very happy to have reached our goal.
All the time the weather was very bad. Around the day we came to high camp it was snowing heavily and the weather had turned stormy. It was not good at all. We had a pretty strenuous climb and we were tired when we reached the high camp. When we went to the summit on the summit day we had hoped for clear weather but there were clouds coming in all the time but we were so lucky, it did not really break for the bad weather when we had the summit attempt. When we stood on the summit, there were lots of clouds, but not really bad. But half and hour we had turned down it was a little whiteout at the summit. It was pretty bad. But we were happy to have reached our goal.
There was another female member from Norway, but she turned back around pretty early in the attempt. She was tired on the day when we started the final summit attempt and she did not make it to the high camp from where we went up.
Advise to climbers keen on climbing Baruntse
I would say that they have to prepare themselves for technical climbing. On the last 250- 300 meters of altitude, the climbing gets rather technical. They have to take a large amount of ropes to fix the way. I wasn’t completely prepared for that, one reason to have given up on the first summit attempt.
I don’t think Baruntse is for novices. You need to have some experience at least. The people that were on this trip had climbed peaks previously both in the alps and in the Himalayas. Some of them have been climbing in South American peaks. If you have some experience it is a good experience to climb Baruntse because you gain a lot of knowledge.
On Future Expeditions
Next year I would like to go to Cho Oyu. For long term plan, I am hoping to have a go at Everest sometimes. I have tried before twice, but I haven’t succeeded. Most probably, we will try to arrange a commercial expedition sometimes for Cho Oyu next year and if that succeeds we hope to do Everest after 2 years.
On the climbing Sherpas , Porters & Explore Himalaya’s logistic
All the people who have been involved in the expedition, both porters and especially the climbing Sherpas has been very good people and have done a great job. I must say our sirdar Lhakpa is really a good guy .He did things the way it should be done and if there were problems we didn’t feel them. We did not see it because he solved everything before it came to our knowledge.
Explore Himalaya has arranged our expedition very professionally. It has been one of the best experiences I have had. There was nothing to complain about .Everything was running smoothly.
The names of the climbers are
1 Mr.BO BELVEDERE CHRISTENSEN –Leader (Denmark) (Summitted)
2. Mr.JENS CHRISTIAN TROLLE NIELSEN (Denmark) (Summited)
3. Mr.MARTIN CEDERKRANTZ (Denmark) (summitted)
4. Ms.ANNY KVITHYLL (Norway)
5. Mr.STEEN ULRIK ULRIKSEN (Denmark)
6. Mr.JESPER JOHANNESEN (Denmark)
They expedition members were supported by:
1.Lhakpa Dorje Sherpa (Sirdar) (Summitted)
2.Dachhemba Sherpa (climbing sherpa)
3.Pem Chhiri Sherpa (climbing sherpa) (Summitted)
4.Megh Bahadur Sherpa (cook)
5.Bal Bahadur Lopchen(kitchen boy) (summitted)
6.Mingmar Tamang(kitchen boy) and 12 local porters.
The itinerary followed by the team
17th April: Lukla
18th April:Pankongma
19th April:Narjing Kharka
20th April :Chilim Kharka
22nd April : Rest
23rd April: Kothe
24th April: Tagnak
25th April: Rest
26th April: Khare
27th April: Mera base camp
28th April:Mera high camp
29th April: Mera summit
30th April: Seto pokhari
1st May: Basecamp
2nd May: Rest
3 -4th May: Camp 1
5-9th May: Camp 2
10th May: First summit attempt
11-13th May :Base camp
14th May :Camp 2
15th May: Summit 10:45- return to base camp
16th May: Rest
17th May :Amphu Lapcha
18th May: Amphu Lapcha
19th May: Chukkum - Dingboche
20th May: Thengboche
21st May :Namche
22nd May: Lukla
24th May :Kathmandu
Thursday, April 17th, 2008
A Meeting With Mr.Bo Belvedere Christensen, Leader of the Kipling Travels Baruntse Expedition at EH
Mr.Bo Belvedere Christensen leader of the six member Kipling Travels Baruntse Expedition dropped in at Explore Himalaya on 16th April after an expedition briefing at the Ministry of Tourism. Along with him was the sirdar of the expedition Lhakpa Dorje Sherpa, an experienced climber who holds the record of climbing Mt.Everest without oxygen four times. Lhakpa was also the sirdar during the famous 1996 IMAX Everest Expedition 1996.
Mr. Christensen along with five other members of his team left for Lukla today. The group shall first do Mera peak as an acclimatization climb before ascending to the Baruntse Base camp.
The group had planned on climbing Shishapangma but had to cancel their plans at the last moment owing to political unrest in Tibet. Mr.Christensen was gracious enough to answer some of the queries put up by EH. Here we reproduce the excerpts of the short interview:
Q. Your group had planned on climbing Shishapangma but had to changed your plans at the last minute owing to disturbance in the Tibet. How do you feel about the change and are you happy with it?
Bo Christensen: Well, of course I would have liked to go to an 8000m peak and originally we had actually planned to go to Cho Oyu. But we had to cancel Cho Oyu as it was reported that it would be closed a long time and then we changed to Shishapangma. But Shishapangma too was closed. Lars asked me about Plan D, I think it was an emergency plan, which was to climb Baruntse, and I said that I have always wanted to climb Baruntse. So we got to choose a mountain that I wanted to go to anyway. Of course we would have liked climb the 8000 m peak but I find those in Nepal too difficult for the group. So we like to do a smaller mountain and Baruntse is quite a good goal, I think. I am very much looking forward to it. I think we would have a good climb there.
Q. After planning and preparing for the Shishapangma expedition for such a long time aren’t your members disappointed with the change of plans? How do they feel about climbing Baruntse?
Bo Christensen: I find that they are quite satisfied with the plan that we have set up for climbing Baruntse and doing Mera Peak on the way as an acclimatization trip. I think that they find this is a good plan and they feel happy about it. I think the challenge for them is quite big because because Baruntse seems to be a difficult mountain to climb on the technical side then the other mountains they have climbed before. So though it may be low Baruntse may be difficult and quite challenging to climb.
Q. Are you satisfied with the way the last minute preparation, with logistic arrangements made by Explore Himalaya?
Bo Christensen: Yes, I know it’s a tough job and I am satisfied with the preparations. I feel satisfied with the way you have arranged things at the last minute. I am very happy .It is a good job you have done out here. Everything is going the way we would have liked to.
Q. Are you confident with the team of Nepalese Sherpa climbers?
Bo Christensen: Yes, it’s a good team.
Q. Yours is one of the few expedition teams to have reached Nepal after the historic elections. How do you find Nepal at this moment?
Bo Christensen: Yes, its calm here and I hope that it would continue this way. I don’t know the outcome of the elections, how it will be, but I hope that it will work out fine. It seems quite cool. It is just as calm as it should be. I think people should come to Nepal.
Q. What message would you like to give to other people who plan to come here?
Bo Christensen : I think that it would be foolish to decide not to come here .Its safe and calm here in Nepal. Its nice here.
Tuesday, April 15th, 2008
Explore Himalaya in partnership with Kipling Travels has organized an expedition to the Baruntse peak for 5 Danish and a Norwegian climbers.The expedition is led by Mr.BO BELVEDERE CHRISTENSEN from Denmark. The group will arrive in Kathmandu on 16th April. They shall fly to Lukla on the 17th & start their trek to Mera Peak from 18th April.They will climb Mera peak as an acclimatization exercise and continue on to Barun Tse peak. The names of the climbers are :
1. Mr.Bo Belvedere Christensen –Leader (Denmark)
2. Mr.Jens Christian Trolle Nielsen (Denmark)
3. Mr.Martin Cederkrantz (Denmark)
4. Ms.Anny Kvithyll (Norway)
5. Mr.Steen Ulrik Ulriksen (Denmark)
6. Mr.Jesper Johannesen (Denmark)
The expedition members shall be supported by :
1.Lhakpa Dorje Sherpa (Sirdar)
2.Dachhemba Sherpa (climbing sherpa)
3.Pem Chhiri Sherpa (climbing sherpa)
4.Megh Bahadur Sherpa (cook)
5.Bal Bahadur Lopchen(kitchen boy)
6.Mingmar Tamang(kitchen boy) and 12 local porters.
More details to come soon…
Monday, April 7th, 2008
Among Everest and high altitude climbers, the revolutionary TopOut oxygen delivery system is becoming very popular. Designed and built by Ted Atkins, a former RAF Aerosystems Engineering Officer and an experienced high altitude climber, Ted summitted Everest in 2004 while testing the prototype.
The expedition teams who have climbed mountains using TopOut (among them the noted Jagged Globe team), have found the design of the mask to be much better, offering a better line of vision unlike the cumbersome old version, with an improved oxygen delivery. TopOut has a working bag that allows you to inhale a higher concentration of oxygen for every breath. The mask ensures that every last molecule of oxygen that leaves the cylinder is processed through the lungs. There is no wastage of oxygen. A good supply of oxygen not only helps you move faster but enables you to think more clearly which is crucial in decision making. Instead of the usual 12 or 14 hours, climbers have summitted Everest in 8 hours using the TopOut masks. To read the testimonials by climbers you can browse TopOut’s website www.topout.co.uk.
Explore Himalaya shall be using TopOut masks for its expeditions to the Everest and other high altitude mountains.
The mask comes is a convenient carry bag ( Pics 1& 2).It consists of a mask, a silicon hose or pipe (Pic 3)that is fitted to the oxygen bottle ( with the regulator) and a plastic canister with a reservoir bag inside, that is fitted to the mask. See Pic 4 to see the whole system fitted together.
(i)The mask: The mask is made of silicon. It does not harden like ordinary rubber when the temperature drops. It remains soft and flexible always. The mask comes in two sizes small and medium. It has a snug fit, ensuring that no oxygen from the bottle goes out in the atmosphere and thus wasted. The seal around the mask (Pic 6) ensures that no oxygen is wasted. There are holes on the masks for the valves. When you are breathing out, the moisture from your breath makes the inside of the mask moist. If you take off the mask to radio or to talk, the cold air might make the valve freeze. The oxygen keeps coming in but you will notice a resistance while breathing out. If that happens you can do three things:
(a )Just blow hard for a few seconds and the valve will move, or
(b)Break the seal at the side of the mask with your finger or thumb so that you are now exhaling through the side of the mask. In a short while your warm breath will have freed the valve.
(c)If steps a & b do not work, you remove the cover off and move the valve (Pics 7 & 8 ) with your finger.
The holes meant for the valves are interchangeable. It means that if one is right handed, one can fit the valve meant for the oxygen hose on the left side keeping the right hand side free and ‘unhampered’ to work on (and vice versa for the left handed).
The mask is washable( just wash with warm soapy water and rinse it thoroughly with clean water and it is germ free!) and reusable.
The Ambient Air Valve: This has a cover(Pic 5,right hand side) to stop it getting covered with the hood of your suit. The cover can be rotated so that the air can come in from any direction. The cover can also be easily removed, this will ease the flow of air into the mask.
The flow of inoming breath can be eased by first removing the small white washer in the centre of the valve(pic 7). This washer is there to stiffen the valve to ensure that the resevoir bag empties first. If you remove the washer ensure that you are still drawing oxygen properly.
We all breath differently so Topout is built so that it can suit you, tune it how you want it.
There are adjustable straps or harnesses and face seal (Pic 9) to attach the mask firmly to your face.
To detach the mask from the straps, simply clip the face seal off. The mask comes apart easily.
(ii)The reservoir Bottle or Canister: We breathe in a cycle of 3 parts: 2 of these are breathing out. While using supplementary oxygen, the gas is flowing constantly. With the old system there was no way to store the extra O2 that was flowing into the mask. It was flowing out into the atmosphere & thus wasted. Now TopOut has a working reservoir bag. When you breathe out the oxygen comes and collects in the reservoir bag. That allows you to inhale a higher concentration of oxygen during expiration, as the first part of your breath goes deep into the lungs for effective processeing by the avioli. When the resevoir bag empties the ambient air valve opens for the second stage of the breath. Thus lower oxygenated air fill the upper respiratory tract where no oxygen exchange takes place. As it is inside a clear plastic canister you can see the bag expand. The bag inside is very fine and has no resistance to the flow of oxygen. (Pic10)
There are vents at the botttom of the bottle (Pic11) to let out the air inside the bottle when the bag expands. If there were no vents, the air inside bottle would be compressing the bag thus trying to stop the bag from working. The canister should be clipped to your clothing or sack with the caribiner(Pic 12). It could be placed in a pocket or inside the suit if preferred but be aware that there are vents in the bottom which must be kept clear for the system to work effectively.
There is a danger that if the wet mask is removed and the oxygen turned off that the oxygen valve could freeze closed. When the oxygen is reconnected if the valve cannot move the bag will burst. This does not stop the system working. Now you cannot see the bag moving but oxygen is still being delivered.
(iii)The pipe or hose: The pipe (Pic 10, the pink hose) is made of silicon. It is very thick and very strong. It has laminated layers and it does not close. Even if the pipe is pressed or nipped it continues to deliver oxygen. In Pic14, you can see the valve that attaches the mask to the hose.
N.B: For those who can read and understand English, the instructions on how to use the mask are given on the plastic canister (Pic 13).
FAQ’s
Q1. If the reservoir bag bursts will the oxygen supply be cut off?
Ans: No, even if the reservoir bag bursts, the oxygen will still be delivered to the mask. You will still be able to breathe in oxygen.
Q2.What stops the mask from working?
Ans: There is only one thing that can stop the mask from working and that is you have to turn the regulator off or cut off the oxygen pipe.
Q3.What happens if I take off the mask to radio?
Ans: In the high mountains, if you take off the mask the cold air could freeze the valves. Exhaled air is heavily laden with moisture. This air has to pass over the outlet valve and must make it wet. This is not a problem while wearing the mask, as your warm breathe will keep the valve working .If you remove the mask the valve could freeze onto its seat. If this happens you will notice a resistance while breathing out. Just break the side seal for about 20 seconds to a min and it will move. Or in the unlikely event of this not working, you can remove the front cover (it simply clips off) and physically free the valve with a finger. Simply break the face seal of the mask for a few moments to allow exhaled air out and your warm breath will soon free the valve.
Q4.If I lose one of the valves, will the mask work?
Ans: Yes, the mask will still be working. You will still be able to breathe in oxygen. But there has been no report of valves getting lost.
The system ‘fails safe’ apart from cutting the delivery tube the system will always deliver oxygen, if at a lesser level of efficiency.
Before use, check that the valves are in place and free to move i.e. not iced up.
You will be asked to give a talk or talks when you get back. Your mask; the one used to summit Everest with, is a great ‘prop’ at your talk. It is something that people can touch, unlike your photos. Ask to take your mask home with you, you can buy it. It is too late to think of it when the invitations come in!
Monday, April 7th, 2008
Jamie McGuiness of Project Himalaya shall be leaving Kathmandu for Lukla along with his 12 member Everest expedition group. The group’s plan was to climb Everest from Tibet side .But as the route was closed, they had to turn to divert their attention towards the southern side. With permit in hand and with lots of ‘good lucks’ & ‘good wishes’ the team shall be leaving tomorrow (on the 07th April). They shall be flying from Kathmandu to Lukla and then to Namche ,Pangboche and finally to Base Camp, from where the real ascent will begin.
The names of the PH Everest Expedition 2008 are:
1.James Stuart Mcguinness-Expedition leader (New Zealand)
2.David G.Cole (Australia)
3. Mr.Raphael Gernez (USA)
4. Gineth Soto-Buturla (Costa Rica)
5. Andrew J.Falgate (UK)
6.Timothy P.Burns (USA)
7. Mr.Martin W.Schmidt (New Zealand)
8.Anselm B.Murphy (Ireland)
9.James D.Oleary (Ireland)
10. Boguslaw A.Magrel (Poland)
11.Slawomir Maksymilian (Poland)
12.Giovannina Cantale (Netherland) will be trekking with the group up to the Base Camp only.
Sunday, April 6th, 2008
Peak Freaks Everest Expedition Set Up Base Camp- Tim Rippel Leads The Team
Tim Rippel of Peak Freaks Expedition left Kathmandu for Lukla on April 1st.At the time of writing this blog he has already reached Base Camp.The members in his team consists of
1.Timothy L.Rippel- Expedition leader (Canada)
2.Michael S.Mortensen (USA)
3.Sultan M.A. Al Ismaili (Oman)- first climber from Oman to try for an Everest summit
4.Lawrence E.Williams(USA)
5.Dominique Gilbert(Canada)
6. Nabil Lodey (UK) - an international lawyer from the UK who is raising money for UNICEF in his push for the summit.
7. Faruq Saad H.Alzuman (Saudi Arabia)- first Saudi Arabian on a mission to summit Mt. Everest
8. Saad A.Naseer(USA) - attempting a 21 day speed ascent from Kathmandu to summit and back.
9.George LaMoureaux(USA) - His mission to Everest is to film the expedition in attempts to raise funds and awareness for America’s missing children.
Will Schmid Thuber will be trekking up to the BC. The climbing sherpas are led by Dendi Sherpa.
The names of Sherpas are as follows:
1.Dendi Sherpa (Sirdar)2.Pema Nure sherpa3.Ang Pasang Sherpa 4.Jangbu Sherpa 5.Ang Gyalgen Sherpa 6.Lakpa Sherpa 7.Mingmar Sherpa 8.Karma Sherpa 9.Lakpa Bhote 10.Kaji Sherpa 11.Pema Chotar Sherpa
12. Ngima Dendi Sherpa 13.Karsang Sherpa
7 Summits Everest Expedition 2008 from Denmark Left Via Jiri- Soren Smidt Leads His member Henrik Kristiansen
Soeren Smidt and Henrik Kristaensen arrived in Kathmandu on 3rd April. They left for Jiri on 6th April. From Jiri they will trek to Everest BC via Lukla and Namche. On the way they shall be trekking to Lobuche East Peak and Island Peak. Their trekking guide is Moule Tamang and Nerman Tamang is the cook.
The sherpas for the Everest expedition will be led by Serab Zhangmu Sherpa.The names of the sherpas are as follows:
1.Serab Zhangmu Sherpa(Sirdar) 2.Temba Sherpa 3.Lhakpa Naru Sherpa 4.Pemba Tenjin Sherpa 5.Darenji Sherpa 6.Bag Bir Tamang
Good Luck to the team!
|
Soeren Smidt |
Henrik Kristiansen |
Stay tuned for more Everest updates - Coming up Jamie’s PH Everest Expedition
Wednesday, March 26th, 2008
Training Workshop on ‘TopOut’ Oxygen Mask Conducted by Ted Atkins
Ted Atkins who has designed and built ‘TopOut’, a new high altitude oxygen delivery system which is fast gaining popularity among high altitude climbers, conducted an orientation workshop and demonstration at the premises of Explore Himalaya’s store. The workshop was held on 25th March and was well attended by Explore’s climbing sherpas.
The workshop kick started at 9:30 a.m with a brief introduction by Ted Atkins.Without much ado he proceeded to elucidate on how TopOut oxygen delivery system works much better in high altitude climbs like Everest, then the old Russian Piosk mask.
Ted Atkins explains how TopOut works
According to him, the mask as well as the oxygen hose is made of silicon, a material which does not harden and remains flexible in high altitude conditions. The mask is fitted to a working resevoir bag(a plastic bag which is fited inside a transparent plastic bottle) that allows one to inhale a higher concentration of oxygen for every breath. .There is no wastage of oxygen during expiration (breathing out) as the flow is directed into the resevoir bag. So when one is climbing using Topout there is no wastage of oxygenYour lungs are taking in the optimum amount of oxygen without wasting any , thus enabling you to think clearly and travel faster, and reach the summit in less time.
Ted with the mask & the reservior bottle
Ted added that the mask, which comes in 2 sizes medium and small, has a snug fit. As the mask fits snugly, there is improved visibility. It does not push up to your goggles obstructing your vision while you are climbing. The mask has three valves.One is for the hose fitted to the oxygen bottle and the reservoir bag,one is for the exhalation valve to stop the cold air from getting inside the mask.
Another excellent feature of the Topout mask , which the sherpas agreed , is that the holes meant for the valves are interchangeable. It means that if one is right handed, one can fit the valve meant for the oxygen hose on the left side keeping the right hand side free and ‘unhampered’ to work on (and vice versa for the left handed).
The mask is washable( just wash with warm soapy water and rinse it thoroughly with clean water and it is germ, plus infection free!) and reusable.According to Ted, in order to assure the clients that the masks are servicable after it is being used, he test it and puts a stamp of approval on the reservoir bag( for the whole system: mask , valves , hose).
After explaining how Topout works,Ted let all the sherpas try out the masks,from the fitting in and to taking out the valves to the masks.
The Sherpas listening toTed in rapt attention
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